ACROSS THE BRIDGE, A GARDEN OF DELIGHT AWAITS AT CAFÉ PASCAL
by the Daily Pilot

The Crystal Court at South Coast Plaza has for a long time languished in the shadow of its larger, more prosperous cousin... After watching the mall struggle for years, the owners recently made an all-out commitment to create a successful center. Prominent in this plan was the construction of the Bridge of Gardens, a futuristic, brushed steel footbridge linking both sides of the plaza. The bridge itself is a marvel to look at - a long, gently curving, covered affair with greenery-planted borders and steel spear accents that jut out from either side of the walkway. The bridge ends abruptly on the original plaza side with an escalator ferrying shoppers down to a large open air atrium leading into the mall itself. It’s here, tucked under the base of the bridge, that Pascal Olhats has opened Café Pascal, the latest entry to his budding empire of fine Orange County eateries.

Pascal could have easily sat on his laurels enjoying the success of his signature restaurant, Pascal in Newport Beach, which has consistently been rated one of Orange County’s best since its opening 12 years ago. Instead, he carefully added to his repertoire, first with the deli-style Épicerie, located next to his original restaurant, and then with Café Jardin, the lovely lunch spot in Corona del Mar’s Sherman Gardens. This latest entry is similar in its offerings to the Épicerie, catering to diners who wish to enjoy a light meal at its charming terrace tables or to the takeout shopping crowd, searching for something other than standard fast-food fare.

The restaurant was designed as an integral part of the bridge structure, and it shares the same brushed steel facade as the rest of the structures. The interior boasts a takeout counter featuring a display of pastries and other baked goods, but no seating.

All of the seating is on the outside terrace at the base of the bridge. Gleaming white umbrellas and sunscreens shield diners from the sun. Heaters will be in place in a week, I was told.

I asked Pascal what he planned to do when it rained: he replied with a slight twinkle in his eye, “take some time off.” Bad weather aside, the setting is surprisingly tranquil. It’s easy to forget you’re in the heart of one of the largest shopping centers in the United States.

The menu caters to harried shoppers and office workers, offering a variety of sandwiches, light crepe dishes and salads. Those hitting the stores early can enjoy a pastry and cappuccino before venturing out to power shop the day away.

Sandwiches are all served on a homemade French baguette and include a choice of carrot salad, fruit salad, couscous or pasta salad. I liked Pascal’s version of the BLT ($7.75), which replaces the traditional bacon with Brie cheese, along with crisp lettuce, some sliced tomatoes and just a hint of Dijon mustard. I like the way the sandwiches are prepared here, European style, without an overabundance of fillings. For me, the portions were just enough to satisfy my hunger without leaving me to tired to continue my quest for the perfect tie at Nordstrom.

The lamb sandwich ($7.95) features thinly-sliced, marinated lamb loin, roasted tomatoes and fresh basil. Another tempting choice is the Chicken Pesto ($7.50), roasted chicken with a homemade pesto sauce and toasted pine nuts. All of the sandwiches are available for takeout for a few dollars less, without the side dish.

Pascal’s lovely wife, Mimi, is currently supervising the affairs of Café Pascal, and when I asked her for a suggestion on a recent visit, she recommended the salmon crêpes ($7.75). Now I have to admit, I’m not usually a fan of crepes. It’s not  the “real man and quiche” thing, just htat I usually think of crepes as being filled with a dense creamy filling and topped with a similar sauce.

Here, I was surprised to find no rich sauce, but rather light, thin pancakes folded flat and filled with a delicious combination of smoked salmon and creamy goat cheese. The tangy cheese is the perfect compliment to the rich salmon, and crêpes themselves were tender, with none of the chewiness that can come with overcooking. I didn’t get to try the smoked chicken crepes ($7.75), which are stuffed with chicken, mozzarella and tomato, but they looked delicious on a plate at the table next to mine.

In addition to savory crêpes, the menu features several sweet crêpe dishes perfect for a light dessert with a steaming espresso or cappuccino.

My friend Jasmine, a fan of the simpler is better concept, convinced us to try the sugar crêpes ($3.50) on a recent visit. Good choice. The crêpes are sprinkled with brown and white sugar and then quickly warmed in a sautée pan. The sugars help bring out the delicate flavor of the thin crêpes without overpowering them.
Café Pascal also offers a warm entree each day as the Plate du Jour ($11.95). We enjoyed the salmon that’s served on Sundays. It’s dressed with a light champagne sauce and accompanied by fluffy mashed potatoes and sautéed leeks.

Shoppers seeking a lighter snack can order a cheese plate ($7.50), or a plate of pate and hard salami served with a fresh roll and butter. Pair one of these with a split of wine for a refreshing midafternoon snack. The holidays are approaching sooner than we’d like, and in no time we’ll all be crowding the malls searching for the perfect gift for Aunt Edna.

Café Pascal provides a quiet, refreshing retreat from the dizzying retail offerings, with the typical style and culinary confidence we’ve come to expect from Pascal and Mimi Olhats.